







Specifications 

for the 

Painter 






TRADE MARK 

Harrison Bros. M Co,, Inc. 
philadelphia chicago 

boston new ORLEANS 
CINCINNATI NEW YORK 





SPECIFICATIONS 
FOR THE PAINTER 



A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK for 
ARCHITECTS and HOUSE PAINTERS 




HARRISON BROS. & CO., Inc. 



PHILADELPHIA, CHICAGO, BOSTON 
CINCINNATI. NEW ORLEANS. NEW YORK 



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COPYRIGHT BY 

HARRISON BROS. & CO., Inc. 
1903 



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PREFACE 

These pages contain clear and complete 
specifications for all usual forms of painted work. 

The value of these forms is attested by the 
fact that they were paralleled almost exactly in 
the report of the Specifications Committee pre- 
sented in February, 1903, at the Nineteenth 
Annual Convention of the National Association 
of Master House Painters and Decorators of the 
United States and Canada. 

The ** Harrison " brands of White Lead, Col- 
ors, Varnishes, Mixed Paints and Specialties are 
named throughout these specifications, because 
they are the standards in each of their several 
classes. ''Town & Country" is a paint of 
such durability and manifold usefulness that it 
may be specified for almost any surface, exterior 
or interior, with full assurance of satisfaction. 
More than a century of successful manufacturing 
has given these products a reputation for ex- 
cellence which will always be maintained. 

HARRISON BROS. & CO., Inc. 



General Specifications 

Scaffolding, etc. 

The painter is to provide all the scaffold- 
ing, staging, etc., which he may need for his 
work, and is to be held responsible for any ac- 
cidents due to defects in the same. He is to 
employ an adequate force of men, so as to 
avoid all unnecessary delays. He is to touch 
up after carpenters and other mechanics as 
may be required ; and, on completion of his 
work, is to leave everything clean and neat. 
He is not to be held responsible for delays 
occasioned by strikes or by fire or any 
unavoidable accident. 

Workmanship 

These specifications call for a thorough 
and workmanlike job. All rough woodwork 
to be sandpapered before priming, and all 
trim, doors, blinds, casings, balustrades and 
the like to be made perfectly smooth. All 
rough places to be sandpapered after priming. 
All coats to be well brushed out. 

Note. — The above presupposes the high- 
est grade of work. In cheap houses, sand- 
papering is frequently omitted, or confined 
to the roughest portions. 



Putty 

All nail holes, season cracks, etc., to be 
thoroughly filled with strictly pure putty made 
from the best grade bolted whiting and pure 
raw Linseed Oil, to be forced down into the 
openings. Bridging over nail holes and 
cracks will not be permitted. 

Note. — Pure White Lead may be added 
to putty if the judgment of the painter ad- 
vises its use. 



Killing Knots 

All knots and sappy spots to be killed 
with orange shellac. 

Note — While knots, etc., are usually shel- 
lacked before priming, some experienced 
painters prefer to shellac knots after prim- 
ing, provided more than one additional coat 
of paint is to be applied. 



Preparing Old Surfaces 

All scale to be thoroughly scraped from 
the surface and rough portions to be smoothed 
with sandpaper. 

Note — If the old paint is badly alliga- 
tored, or is scaled in spots and clings tight 
in other places, it must be removed with 
the paint burner before a good job of re- 
painting can be done. Neglect to do this 
may result in the new paint puUing off the 
old down to the bare wood. 



Exterior Painted Woodwork 

(For Roofs, see pp. 24 and 25) 

Woodwork 

All exterior woodwork except to 

be primed with (A) and to have 

(B) additional coats of (C) 

, in the following colors (here specify 

in detail the general color scheme and whether 
the mouldings are to be picked out in a sep- 
arate color) ; or, in tints to be selected by the 
architect, it being understood that not more 
than colors are to be used. 

(A) Priming 

1. Harrisons' "Town & Country" 
Primer and Filler. 

Note — A perfect priming and filling coat, 
ready mixed and thinned to the proper 
consistency. 

2. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead. 

Note — A very finely ground white lead 
which will enter the pores of the wood. 

3. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead, 
tinted with not more than one per cent, of 
Harrisons' Lamp Black, Ochre or Umber in oil. 

Note — The reason for adding the tinting 
color is that the priming may better cover 
any stains or discolorations in the wood and 
enable the subsequent coats to cover more 
evenly. 



(B) Number of Coats 

For the best work, two or more coats in 
addition to the priming coat. For cheap 
work, one coat. 

Note. — For repainting old work, two thin 
coats are usually sufficient and are more 
economical than one heavy coat. 

(C) Subsequent Coats 

1. Harrisons' "Town & Country" 
Ready Mixed Paints of the shade selected by 
the owner or architect. 

Note. — These are machine mixed paints 
of the highest grade in every respect, com- 
pounded from white lead, zinc white and the 
necessary tinting colors. 

2. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead. 

NoTE.-^This is for white work. If tints 
are desired, add the words : " To be tinted 
as directed by the architect, with Harrisons' 
Pure Oil Colors. ' ' 

3. If very dark colors are desired, Har- 
risons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with sufficient 
pure raw Linseed Oil and pure Turpentine to 
reduce them to the proper consistency for use. 

Note. — This applies to such colors as 
Umber, Ochre, Sienna, Indian or Venetian 
Red, Bronze or Bottle Green, Tuscan Red 
or Vermilion when used as pure colors, no 
white base being used. 



Thinners 

Pure raw Linseed Oil only to be used for 
thinning the paint, with just sufficient pure 
Turpentine and best liquid driers as may be 
required in the judgment of the painter, to 
produce durable work. 

Ironwork 

All rust and mill scale to be thoroughly 
removed from iron work by means of steel 
wire brushes, and by pickling with dilute 
hydrochloric acid, which is to be washed care- 
fully from the surface before it is primed. 

Priming 

The priming coat to be the** Harrison " 
Extra Bright Red Lead, mixed to the proper 
consistency with raw Linseed Oil, and about 
one gill of the best Japan drier to the 
gallon of Oil, and all portions of the surface to 
be primed. [As the mixture of Red Lead and 
Oil hardens rapidly in the can or barrel it is 
best to prepare the paint just before using.] 

To be followed by additional coats 

of (A) 

(A) Additional Coats 

I. Harrisons' **Antoxide." 

Note. — A paint of great protective value 
for structural or exterior ironwork. It comes 
in Black, Red, Maroon and Bronze Green. 



8 



2. Harrisons' Extra Bright Red Lead, 
tinted with not more than half a pound of 
Harrisons' Lamp Black in Oil to twenty-five 
pounds of Red Lead. 

Note. — If three coats are to be given, the 
last coat should be pure Red Lead. The 
object of tinting the second coat is to enable 
the inspector to make sure that every por- 
tion of the iron work has received the 
number of coats specified. This is specially 
important on structural iron work. 

3. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead, 
tinted with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, as may 
be directed. 

4. Harrisons' "Town & Country" Ready 
Mixed Paints, in the shades selected. 

5. Harrisons' ^ Black Asphaltum Var- 
nish mixed with Harrisons' Diamond Finish, 
Outside. 

Note. — This makes an excellent and dur- 
able black finish for outside work, retaining 
a high gloss for years. 

6. Harrisons' ^ Black Asphaltum Var- 
nish. 

Note. — Gives good black gloss finish for 
interior use. 

Galvanized Ironwork 

All galvanized ironwork, rain conductors, 
cornices and the like, to be primed with Har- 
risons' Antoxide '*F", and to have * 



♦With Galvanized iron work the fewer coats the better. 

9 



additional coats of (A) 



Note. — Antoxide "F" is the only paint 
that adheres fimly to galvanized iron, and 
therefore makes the best priming for this 
formerly troublesome surface. 

(A) Additional Coats 

1. Harrisons' Antoxide *'D". 

Note. — This is specially intended for sur- 
faces exposed to the action of water, and 
where color is no object ; is recommended 
for corrugated iron roofs, the interior of 
hanging gutters, tanks and the like. 

2. Harrisons' 'Town & Country" Ready 
Mixed Paints, in colors as selected. 

3. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead 
tinted with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, as di- 
rected by the architect. 



Exterior 
Varnished Woodwork 

All exterior, open -grained woodwork, 
(oak, chestnut, ash, etc.) to be filled with Har- 
risons' Paste Filler, well rubbed into the grain 
of the wood with burlap or curled hair and 
allowed to become bone-dry before the varnish 
is applied. 

Note. — Close grained woods, like white 
and yellow pine, cherry, poplar or white- 
wood, cypress and the hke, do not require 
paste filler, but may be varnished directly 
upon the wood. 



ID 



To be followed by two or three coats of 

(A) The first coat or coats to 

be rubbed with curled hair, to cut the gloss ; 
the last coat to be left with full gloss. 

Note. — The durability of an outside varn- 
ish is impaired if the final coat is rubbed. 

(A) 

1. For the very best grade work, Harri- 
sons' Diamond Finish, Outside. 

2. For high grade work, Harrisons' 
Crystal Finish, Outside, or Harrisons' Spar 
Finishing. 

3. For a good, durable finish, Harrisons' 
'' Vitrolac " E for Exterior Finishing. 

Note. — No varnish will stand outside ex- 
posure unless it is specially made therefor 
and is of good quality. 



Interior Painted Woodwork 

Flat Finish 

All interior woodwork, except floors [here 
specify in which rooms], to be primed with 
Harrisons' Perfecdy Pure White Lead and 

pure Linseed Oil and to have additional 

coats, as follows : 

I. Two coats Harrisons' *'Town & 
Country" Inside Flat White. 



II 



2. Three coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
Pure White Lead, each coat to be allowed to 
become bone-dry, and to be sandpapered 
smooth before the succeeding coat is applied. 
Final coat to be Harrisons' Pure French Zinc 
White, ground in bleached Linseed Oil. [If 
the very finest and whitest job possible is de- 
sired, specify : *'To be ground in pure poppy- 
seed oil".] Thin with pure Turpentine. 

Note. — The above specification provides 
for a pure white finish, having a smooth, 
velvety texture. 

3. Three coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
Pure White Lead, each coat to be allowed to 
become bone-dry, and to be sandpapered 
smooth before the next coat is applied. The 
last coat to be thinned with pure Turpentine 
only. 

Note. — If tinted work is wanted, add : 
" The last two coats to be tinted as directed 
with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors." 

4. Two coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
Pure White Lead, the last coat to be thinned 
with pure Turpentine only, to be tinted with 
Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors as may be directed 
by the architect. 

Note. — This is the usual quality of work 
for the average house. 

5. If very dark colors are required, the 
second coat is to be Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
White Lead, tinted with Harrisons' Lamp 



12 



I 



Black in Oil to a lead color, and the final coat 
to be Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with 
pure Turpentine, and just enough pure Linseed 
Oil to act as a binder. 

Note. — All sap and knots must be killed 
by shellac before the priming coat is 
applied. In the best work, a coat of shellac 
should be applied to the entire surface of the 
wood before priming. This will give a much 
better surface for following coats. 

Gloss Finish 
China Gloss 

An old Philadelphia formula 

First coat to be white shellac, sand- 
papered well. 

Second coat, Harrisons* Perfectly Pure 
White Lead, mixed with equal parts of Lin- 
seed Oil and Turpentine. 

Third coat, Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
White Lead, flat (all Turpentine), sandpapered 
smooth. 

Fourth coat, Harrisons' French Zinc 
White, ground in Harrisons' ^ Damar Var- 
nish, and, if necessary, thinned with Turpen- 
tine, using as little as possible. 

Note. — The above is for good work but 
can be enlarged considerably. The very- 
best work should have at least six coats, 
being rubbed on the coat of zinc-in-da- 
mar, and finished with a coat of clear 
Harrisons' A Damar Varnish. One or two 
additional coats of white lead may be used, 
each one being rubbed perfectly smooth. 



13 



For a dead white effect, a little cobalt blue 
should be added to the zinc-in-damar coat. 
A beautifully soft effect in colors can be 
obtained by tinting the white lead coats with 
Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, several shades 
darker than it is desired to have the finished 
color. The zinc-in-damar coat is then used as 
a glaze, toning down the under colors. It is 
well to note, however, that this kind of 
finish requires workmen of exceptional skill, 
or the color will not be even. 



Enamel 



Three coats Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
White Lead, rubbed perfectly smooth with 
fine sandpaper or pumice, followed by two 
coats Harrisons' Interior Decorative Enamels, 
of the colors selected — (the last coat may be 
rubbed to a dull gloss or to a polish as desired). 

Note. — For less expensive work, two 
coats of Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White 
Lead and one coat of Harrisons' Interior 
Decorative Enamel, flowed on. These 
enamels are made in 20 colors. 

Gloss Paints 

I . For White only — two coats Harrisons' 
Perfectly Pure White Lead, and one additional 
coat of Harrisons' ''Town & Country " China 
Gloss. For a less expensive finish, use *' Town 
& Country" Inside Gloss White. 

Note. — Except Cherry, which is usually 
too expensive, Poplar is better adapted 
for painting upon than any other finishing 
lumber, and should therefore be specified 
wherever high grade work is required, es- 
pecially an enamel finish. 



14 



2. One coat Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
White Lead, and two additional coats Harri- 
sons' 'Town & Country" Ready Mixed 
Paints. 

Note. — These paints make an extremely 
durable surface with a good gloss which can 
be scrubbed and washed without affecting 
it. They are made in 64 colors besides 
black and white. 

3. One or two coats of Harrisons' Per- 
fectly Pure White Lead, and two coats of Har- 
risons' Sanitary Gloss Paint. 

Note, — Sanitary Gloss Paints were espec- 
ially prepared for the severe usage of Hos- 
pital and Pubhc Institution walls. They are 
permanently lustrous and are of extraordi- 
nary durability. 



Interior Varnished Woodwork 

(See note on page 18.) 

Open-Grained Woods 

All open-grained wood to be filled with 
Harrisons' Paste Filler, well rubbed in, and 
when thoroughly dry, to be rubbed off the 
surface of the wood with burlap or curled hair. 

Note. —Coarse or open-grained, requiring 
paste Fillers : Ash, Bass, Butternut, Chest- 
nut, Elm, Mahogany, Oak and Walnut. 

Medium or close-grained requiring no paste 
Filler : Beech, Birch, Cherry, Cypress, Dog- 
wood, Hemlock. Maple, Pine, Poplar, Red- 
wood and Sycamore. 



15 



Yellow or Hard Pine should not be 
treated with liquid filler, but invariably have 
a first coat of Shellac varnish to hold back 
the pitch. 

To be followed by : 

1. For Gloss Finish, one coat of Harri- 
sons* varnish, rubbed with curled 

hair, and one coat flowed on with full gloss. 

2. Two coats of Harrisons' 

varnish ; full gloss. 

Note. — No. i gives better finish than 
No. 2. A still better grade of work is pro- 
duced by specifying two coats rubbed and 
one left full gloss. 

Note. — In the above specifications, the 
following grades of varnish should be speci- 
fied, according to the quality of work de- 
sired : 

(a) For the best possible finish : Harri- 
son's Diamond Finish, Inside. 

(b) For a high grade finish, short only 
of being the best : Harrisons* Crystal Finish, 
Inside, or Harrison's " Vitrolac " I for Inte- 
rior Dressing. 

(c) For average houses where a fair 
quality of work is required : Harrisons'^ 
Hard Oil Finish. 

(d) For ordinary work : Harrisons' Cabi- 
net Finish, No. i Hard Oil Finish, or No. i 
Furniture Varnish, according to the grade of 
work desired. 

Close-Grained Woods 

All close-grained woods to have one coat 
of Harrisons' Liquid Filler ; or, one coat of 
shellac, to be followed by the varnish coats as 

i6 



specified for open grained woods; or, two 
(or more) coats of Harrisons' var- 
nish applied on the bare wood. 

Note. — Varnish is the best possible filler, 
the only object of a hquid filler being to save 
a varnish coat. Close-grained wood, being 
smooth, does not require paste filler. 

For list of close-grained woods see p. 15. 

Dull Gloss or Rubbed Work 

Proceed as above until the final coat. 
Last coat to be rubbed with pumice and crude 
oil to a dull finish or egg-shell gloss ; or, to a 
polish, the final rubbing being with pumice and 
water and rotten stone and water or crude oil. 

In rubbed work, as a rule, more coats 
are necessary to obtain the same durability 
and grade of finish than when the varnish is 
left with a full gloss, as part of the last coat is 
removed by the rubbing. To obtain the finest 
finish, each coat should be rubbed until the 
gloss is cut and the surface is smooth, before 
the succeeding coat of varnish is applied. 

Note. — For the undercoats, better work 
may be done by using a specially prepared 
rubbing varnish. According to the grade 
of the job, specify Harrisons' Diamond 
Rubbing, Crystal Rubbing or Cabinet Rub- 
bing. 

Dull Finish without Rubbing 

On the final coat, use Harrisons' ^'Flatlac". 

Note.—" Flatlac " is a high-grade inside 
finishing varnish that dries with a soft ^%z- 



17 



shell finish. It perfectly imitates the appear- 
ance of freshly-rubbed, high-lustre varnish, 
and retains its flat finish permanently. 

General Note on Varnishing. — Var- 
nish work, both the labor and material 
used, is often condemned by the archi- 
tect simply because the work has been 
done under unfavorable conditions. Varn- 
ishing, to obtain the best results, should be 
done only in a dust free, well ventilated 
room, of an even temperature, not less than 
75 degrees Fahrenheit, and absolutely free 
from dampness. Each coat must be allowed 
to become absolutely bone-dry, and not 
merely surface-dry, before the next is ap- 
plied. Doors and inside bhnds should be 
taken off and laid flat. The varnish should 
be flowed on freely and brushed as little as 
possible. It is only by such methods that 
the fine finish found on pianos and high 
grade furniture and carriages can be ob- 
tained : and it is useless to insist upon a 
painter rivaling such work, or even ap- 
proaching it, unless these conditions are in 
a measure fulfilled. 



Staining 



open-Grained Woods 

(See list on page 15.) 

Paste Filler is to be used, stained as di- 
rected by the architect, with Harrisons' Pure 
Oil Colors. 

Close-Grained Woods 

To be stained with Harrisons' Oil Wood 
Stains, or Harrisons' Varnish Stains, or on 

18 



floors with Harrisons' Floor Stain and Fin- 
ish, as may be directed (these imitate ash, 
cherry, dark oak, Hght oak, mahogany, rose- 
wood and walnut); or, to be stained with Har- 
risons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with pure Lin- 
seed Oil, before varnishing. 

A slightly different effect is produced by 
adding the staining color to the Liquid Filler. 

Note. — Where a perfectly uniform stain 
is desired, a coat of shellac should be 
given before the stain coat is applied. 

To develop the grain of White Pine, and 
other woods in artistic colorings that are not 
imitative : The wood to be stained before var- 
nishing (on open-grained woods, the stain- 
ing to be done after the paste filler has been 
applied) with Harrisons' Interior Decorative 
Stains, to be applied with a brush and allowed 
to dry partially, after which the wood is to be 
wiped with cloths to obtain the desired effect. 

Note. — Variations in color and degree of 
staining are produced by allowing the stain 
to remain on a longer or shorter time before 
wiping, and by the vigor with which the 
surface is wiped. Harrisons' Interior Dec- 
orative Stains are made in 21 colors. 

Flemish Oak 

Harrisons' Paste Filler to be used, stained 
with Harrisons' Lamp Black and followed by 
a glaze coat of Harrisons' ^ Black Asphaltum 
Varnish. 

Note. — Flemish Oak finish is usually left 
without additional varnishing. 



19 



Painting Back of Trim 

' Before any trim or inside finishing lumber 
is placed in position, it must be painted on the 
the back with one coat of rough paint. 

Note. — The object of painting the back 
of trim is to prevent the lumber from ab- 
sorbing moisture from the plaster, which 
retains an appreciable quantity of water 
long after it appears to be dry. For this 
back painting, any paint is good enough to 
serve the purpose, such as the odds and 
ends that collect around the paint shop. 
Back painting is generally omitted in low 
cost houses, but should always be specified 
in the belter class of work, especially where 
it is particularly desired to avoid the un- 
sightly cracks which occur at mitered joints 
of door and window trim. 



Brickwork 



Flat Color 



Face bricks to be painted 

coats as follows : 

For Red : To have priming and second 
coat of Harrisons' Venetian Red and final coat 
of Harrisons' Flat Brick Color of one of the 
following shades, as may be selected : — Light 
Red, Philadelphia Medium, Dark Red or Extra 
Dark Red. 

For Buff : To have priming and second 
coat of Harrisons' Yellow Ochre and final coat 



20 



of Harrisons' Flat Brick Color, — Milwaukee or 
Buff, as may be selected. 

Gloss Surface 

1. To be primed with Harrisons' ''Town 
& Country" Primer and Filler and to have 

additional coats of Harrisons 

''Town & Country" Ready Mixed Paints of 
such shades as may be selected. 

2. To be primed with Harrisons' Perfectly 
Pure White Lead and Linseed Oil, and to have 

additional coats of Harrisons' 

Perfectly Pure White Lead and Linseed Oil 
tinted with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors to such 
shade as may be directed by the architect. 

3. To have coats of Har- 
risons' Pure Oil Colors thinned to working 
consistency with pure Linseed Oil (this is for 
colors used in their pure color tones). If fiat 
color other than Reds or Buffs is desired, 
specify — the last coat to be applied flat, by 
thinning same with pure turpentine. 

Note. — The above specifications are for 
brickwork that has not been painted. Where 
the surface has been previously painted, 
fewer coats may be used, depending on the 
condition of the old paint. 

In Light Shafts where a high gloss is desired 

To be painted with coats of 

Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead and 



21 



pure Linseed Oil, and one coat of Harrisons 
White " Weatherproof " Enamel. Harrisons 
"Weatherproof" Enamel Diluent, only, to be 
used if thinning of the enamel is required. 

Penciling Joints 

All mortar joints to be penciled with Har 
risons' Perfectly Pure White Lead (which may 
be tinted to such color as the architect may 
direct). 



Plastered Walls 

All plastered walls and ceilings in the 
following rooms and halls to be painted : — 
(here give list). The plaster is to be sized 
with one coat of Harrisons' Wall Varnish. 

Note. — The glue size often employed as 
a preparatory coating on plaster, should 
never be specified, since it has a tendency 
to cause peeling or pulling off of the sub- 
sequent coats. For the same reason, cheap 
rosin and benzine varnishes should be 
avoided. Harrisons' Wall Varnish is 
specially prepared for sizing plaster and can 
be depended on to give satisfactory results. 

Decorative Fresco Painting 

After sizing, the plaster is to be decorated 
with Harrisons' Distemper or Fresco Colors, 
in accordance with the detail sketches. 

Note. — If elaborate decorations are de- 
sired, and the architect cannot allow suffi- 
cient time for the preparation of sketches for 



22 



the decoration before letting the contract, 
it is well to specify as follows : 

Allow $ for decorations 

i^ the room, the work to 

be done with Harrisons' Distemper or Fresco 
Colors, over a sizing coat of Harrisons' Wall 
Varnish. Sketches to be submitted and ap- 
proved by the architect before beginning the 
work. 

Plain Wall Painting 

(i) After sizing, the plaster is to be 
painted with Harrisons' Distemper or Fresco 
Colors, in such plain tints as may be directed 
by the architect. 

(2) Plaster to be painted with 

coats of Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead 
and Turpentine, tinted as directed. 

Note. — Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White 
Lead "I S," or "I" is so ground as to be 
specially adapted to flatting walls. 

Plain VJsll Painting — Gloss Finish 

1. After sizing, all plaster is to have 

coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 

Pure White Lead and pure Linseed Oil, tinted 
to the shades required with Harrisons' Pure 
Oil Colors. 

2. Harrisons' "Town & Country" Ready 
Mixed Paints, of such colors as maybe selected. 

Note. — These paints retain their high 
gloss, and are well adapted for use in kitch- 
ens, bathrooms, pantries and the like. 



23 



3. Harrisons' Sanitary Gloss Paints, of 
the tint selected. 

Note. — These paints are specially pre- 
pared for the walls and woodwork of hospi- 
tals and public institutions. They will retain 
their high gloss and remain otherwise un- 
injured under constant cleaning with soap 
and disinfectants. 



Floors 

Varnishing — Open-Grained ^A/'oods 

(See page 15.) 

To be filled with Harrisons' Paste Wood 
Filler, well rubbed into the grain of the wood, 
and the surplus rubbed of! with burlap or 

curled hair. To have coats of 

Harrisons' ''Vitrolac" F, for Finishing Floors. 

Varnishing — Close-Grained Woods 

If the floor is yellow or white pine, or 
some other close-grained wood, which does 
not require much filling, the ''Vitrolac" F 
to be applied upon the bare wood, the first 
coat acting as a filler. 

Note. — Do not use Liquid Filler on floors. 

Varnishing and Staining 

For varnishing and staining hard-wood 
floors at one operation where it is desired 
to show the grain of the wood, one coat of Har- 
risons' Floor Stain and Finish to be applied. 

24 



Waxing 

To be filled with Harrisons' Paste Wood 
Filler (if of open-grained wood), well rubbed 
into the grain of the wood and rubbed of! the 
surface with burlap or curled hair and allowed 
to become bone-dry, after which to be given 
two coats of Harrisons' Wax Finish for Floors; 
each coat to be applied very thin, with a cloth, 
and polished with a weighted brush. A final 
polishing to be given with felt or carpeting 
laid over the brush. 



Painting 

The floors of the following rooms : . . . 

to be painted with . . . 

coats of Harrisons' Floor and Deck Paints. 



Note. — On porch floors, and other floors 
liable to be affected by dampness arising 
from beneath, these paints should be used 
over a priming (on hard-wood floors) of 
Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead thinned 
with equal parts of Oil and Turpentine ; (and 
on soft-wood floors) of equal parts by weight 
of Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White lead and 
Harrisons' French Ochre, thinned with two 
parts Linseed Oil and one of turpentine and 
sufficient drier. 



Stenciling 



To be painted with three coats Harrisons' 
Perfectly Pure White Lead, tinted as directed 
by the architect with Harrisons' Pure Oil Col- 



25 



ors, thinned with Turpentine. Stencil borders 
in (one or more) colors, in accordance with the 
details, and finished with two coats Harrisons' 
" Vitrolac " F for Finishing Floors. 

Note. — A solid color with stenciled bor- 
der makes a sanitary and attractive floor, 
especially for bedrooms. 



Roofs 

Tin 

All tin roofs to be washed with benzine, 
and painted on the underside with one coat 
before being laid upon the roof (two coats 
would make a better job, but this is not usual) 

and on the upper side with two coats of 

(A) The exposed surface to receive the 

priming coat as soon as possible after the roof 
has been put on, and on no account must the 
tin be allowed to rust before painting. All 
rosin to be scraped from the joints before 
painting and all oil and grease to be removed 
from the tin with benzine or gasoline. 

(A) 

1. Harrisons* 'Town & Country" Ready 
Mixed Paints. 

2. Harrisons' "Town & Country" Roof 
Paints (6 colors). 

26 



3. Harrisons' Venetian Red in pure Lin- 
seed Oil. 

4. Harrisons' Graphite in pure Linseed 
Oil. 

5. Harrisons' Metallic Brown in pure 
Linseed Oil. 



Rain Water Conductors 

To be dipped in the same paint that is 
used for the roof. 

Note. — This applies to tin conductor 
pipes. Galvanized iron pipes to be either 
left unpainted or to be dipped in Harrisons' 
Antoxide " F." 



Shingle 

Shingle roofs to be painted with 

coats Harrisons' ''Town & Country" Roof 
Paints (6 colors), over a coat of Harrisons' 
Primer and Filler; or, Harrisons' ''Town & 
Country" Shingle Stains (12 colors); or, Har- 
risons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with pure 
Linseed Oil to the consistency of a stain. 

Note. — The last two may be used as a 
paint, or the first coat may be applied by 
dipping the shingles in the stains, before 
they are laid, and the second coat to be 
brushed on after the shingles are on the roof. 
This latter method prevents white lines from 
appearing as the shingles shrink. 

27 



Grained Woodwork 

All woodwork in the to be 

grained (insert name of wood) 

as follows : 

All woodwork to be sandpapered perfectly 
smooth. All knots or sappy places (in pine 
wood) to be shellacked. 

Note. — In first-class work it is better to 
specify that the entire surface of the wood 
be given a thin coat of shellac. 

Ground Color 

The entire surface to have three smooth 
coats of ground color made from Harrisons' 
Perfectly Pure White Lead tinted with Harri- 
sons' Pure Oil Colors, to be strained before 
applying. 

For cheap work two coats of ground color 
will be sufficient. Not less than four days to 
elapse between the priming and second coats 
of ground color, and at least two days between 
each succeeding coat. 

If there are no streaky or strong heart 
grains in the wood, graining on white pine or 
whitewood may be done over two coats of 
white shellac as a groundwork, but as a rule, 
painted grounds are safest. 

Note. — "Harrisons' " Graining Grounds 
are made from Harrisons' Pure White Lead 
tinted to the appropriate color for Ash, 

28 



Chestnut, Light Oak, Dark Oak, Mahogany 
and Walnut, and will be found useful and 
economical, as they save trouble in mixing. 
Ground color containing zinc white should 
be avoided on account of its tendency to 
cause the subsequent varnish coat to crack. 



Graining Color 

Graining to be done in a workmanlike 
manner, using only Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors 
or Harrisons' Graining Colors. 

Note. — It is well to specify in city work : 
"All graining to be done in a thoroughly 
workmanlike and artistic manner by a 
grainer to the trade," in order to insure the 
employment of competent workmen. 



Mahogany Graining 

The wood-work is to be given two coats 
of orange shellac to which a little of Harrisons' 
Grainers' Burnt Sienna in Oil has been added 
to give the proper foundation, after which the 
work is to be grained in the most workmanlike 
manner. 

Note. — This method is suited for grain- 
ing in imitation of Mahogany only. 

Varnishing 

All grained work to be given 

coats (one coat for ordinary work, two or more 
coats for better work) of Harrisons' 

I. Diamond Finish, Inside. 



29 



2. Crystal Finish, Inside, or '* Vitrolac " 
I for Interior Finishing. 

3. Cabinet Finish. 

Note. — For exterior grained work specify : 

1. Diamond Finish, Outside. 

2. Crystal Finish, Outside, or Span Fin- 
ishing. 

3. "Vitrolac" E for Exterior Finishing. 

Rubbed Work 

To have two (or more) coats of Harrisons' 

1. Diamond Finish, Inside. 

2. Crystal Finish, Inside, or ''Vitrolac" 
I for Interior Finishing. 

3. Cabinet Finish. 

rubbed to a dull gloss (or a polish) with pum- 
ice stone and crude oil. 



Blackboards 

To be primed with Harrisons' Perfectly 
Pure White Lead tinted with Harrisons' Lamp 
Black in Oil, and two additional coats of Har- 
risons' Blackboard Slating. 



Radiators 

Exposed Steam Pipes, etc. 

To have coats of Harrisons' 

Radiator Enamel (made in four colors) of the 

30 



tint selected ; or, Harrisons' " Astraluminum " 
Paint, or Harrisons' Ready-mixed Gold Paint. 

Note. — "Astraluminum" is an alum- 
inum paint of the highest quality. 



Pipes in Refrigerating Plants 
and Electrical Apparatus 

To receive two (or more) coats of Harri- 
sons' Insulating Black Paint 

Note. — Surfaces exposed to electricity by 
nearness either to apparatus or wires should 
be protected with Harrisons' Insulating 
Paint. 

Stables 

In the main, specifications for stable 
painting will be identical with those for house 
painting. White Lead, however, should not 
be used inside the stable proper, or where am- 
monia fumes are present. For varnished 
work subject to the stable fumes, specify Har- 
risons' Diamond Finish, Inside, or Harrisons' 
Crystal Finish, Inside, for final coat (over an 
undercoat of the corresponding grade of rub- 
bing varnish, where more than one coat of 
varnish is desired besides the filler). 



31 



For woodwork well cut off from stable 
fumes, Harrisons' Hard Oil Finish (^, Extra 
or No. i) or Cabinet Finish may be used. 

Harrisons' Varnish Stains, combining 
stain and varnish in one coat, are well suited 
for carriage houses or other parts of stables 
shut off from stable fumes, over a filling coat 
of liquid or paste filler, or for old work requir- 
ing renewal. 

Barns and Outhouses 

Two coats of Harrisons' ''Town & 
Country " Roof Paints (Brown, Red, Slate, Light 
Slate, Olive Green or Moss Green) will give 
good results on all buildings where their color 
is appropriate, such as barns, outhouses, sheds 
and the like ; and where a low-priced yet 
durable paint is required. 



32 



ki.'.i/' ^rio 



LIBRA-RY OF CONGRESS 




013 962 752 • 



